Isle of Wight Circumnavigation

Saturday 23/05/09

With promising weather and some good planning done by Griff, the prospect of finally achieving our goal of circumnavigating the Isle of Wight seemed a real possibility. We were joined by Darren, a self confessed relative novice but at least he was fit and had recent BCU training at a well known centre in Wales.

We met at Lee on Solent at 0815 hours to load up and ready ourselves for the trip. By 0850 we were on the water and paddling south toward East Cowes. The calm sea swiftly became a lumpy mess, however we battled through it with visibly clear water ahead and came into the shallows at Norris Point. We turned westwards, clearing Cowes and rounding Egypt Point stopping briefly at Gurnard Point for a bacon baguette. The westward journey continued with the tide, briskly taking us to Newtown River where we stopped so I could stretch my legs. Yarmouth came up quickly and the over falls at Black Rock had us striving to get closer inshore to avoid the worst of it. We passed a group of eight of paddlers resting on the Yarmouth beach and we ourselves stopped briefly just past Fort Victoria for another leg stretch. The other paddlers then passed us heading west.

We pressed on out of the Solent crossing Totland Bay catching the paddlers up as we arrived at Alum Bay, which was just as glass like as the last time had visited. I felt tired after a hard week and snoozed on the beach, though I am told I was only asleep for five minutes. It was enough to revitalise me. Our tidal streams atlas indicated it was slack water and indeed, the other paddlers headed east again as we paddled along the north side of The Needles, hugging them to admire them up close. We rounded the lighthouse and paddled east again along the other side. The south side of the island looked just as tranquil as Alum Bay and with even better weather forecast for the following day, the decision to continue was made. We bypassed Freshwater Bay staying off-shore heading direct to Brightstone. This crossing took two hours or so of steady paddling. As we arrived on a shingle beach we found ourselves a raised shingle platform above the high tide mark and pitched up for the night. After a BBQ dinner, we retired for the night having paddled 25 nautical miles. I didn't sleep well, seeming to wake every five minutes.

Sunday 24/05/09

We were awake early to make use of the east going tide. We set off after a cup of tea and paddled six miles landing on a beautiful shingle beach just west of St Catherine's Point. We breakfasted, allowing a little time for the tide race to diminish. We climbed the steep steps on the cliff side to gain a view eastwards. The day was hotting up and the sea remained glassy. Following the cliff edge around the point looking down on the submerged rocks, we found that the tide had turned earlier than the tidal streams atlas indicated. Punching a knot of tide, it took over an hour to reach Ventnor. Along the way, Griff spotted our first seal. Except this one had a snorkel and two flippers. He was along way from any landing point having been carried by the tide.

At Ventnor, we rested up for a good while and had our lunch. We met a couple who were paddling the "Big 5". I am afraid our effort was rather meagre compared to theirs - they had already completed their cross channel trip and Lands End to the Isles Of Scily paddle and only had the Canada to Alaska trip left to do. Ventnor Harbour was a disappointment. About one third the size of Ryde, a few visiting yachts could be accommodated on trot moorings if it were not for the plethora of local fishing boats 'blockading' the harbour. A wasted development opportunity if ever I saw one.

Mid afternoon, we continued eastwards and now the sea had become mirror like. An hour of paddling against the last of a foul tide brought us to Shanklin where we landed for a short rest on the sandy beach. We opted for a direct route across Sandown Bay to eastern end of Culver Cliff. By now, the tide was firmly behind us and carried us into Whitecliff Bay where we stopped for a beer and a rest. Muffin III lay quietly to her anchor in the middle of the bay and I stopped for a brief chat. Twenty minutes later, we set off on our final leg of the day, rounding Bembridge Ledge close to the rocks looking down on a forest of kelp. The Bembridge lifeboat station was under renovation with the boat shed removed and a large work platform alongside on stilts. We heard a call to the Coast Guard on the VHF. A woman had been stung by a weaver fish in Priory bay and the caller wanted assistance - the result was the Sandown ILB being dispatched! The crew came past us at forty or so knots, picked her up and ferried her two hundred yards to a waiting ambulance....
With enough water now, we paddled across the sands inshore of St Helens Fort and across the Bembridge Harbour channel. Skimming through a foot of water, we landed in Priory Bay at 8pm where we would spend our last night under canvas. The beach was still busy with a young family belting out campfire songs until late and a water skier who carried on in to the darkness until 10pm. We were in our sleeping bags shortly after though having paddled another 22 nm in about ten hours. At this point I discovered why I had slept so badly the previous night - Griff gave me a jab every time I snored!

Monday 25/05/09

An even earlier start this morning as the inshore waters forecast indicated a change in the weather around midday. After a long drag across the sands, we paddled through shallow water past Seaview and around Ryde Sands. Behind us a large grey cloud loomed threatening rain. With only 8nm left to cover, we set of aiming to close land at Browndown Point. This crossing usually takes 40 minutes, but half way across a wicked wind and sea sprang up and forced us to detour to Gilkicker Point for shelter. We found ourselves between two WightLink car ferries just to add to the fun. Struggling on with little more than a knot of headway, the Gosport and Fareham Inshore Rescue boat shot out to sea. I would gladly have accepted a lift had it have come my way! Once at Gilkicker, naturally the wind died right back to nothing. Darren went ashore at Stokes Bay and Griff and I carried on to Lee On Solent to complete our circumnavigation. A later check on the weather indicated 30 to 35 knots of wind while we crossed The Solent.

The trip was fascinating and challenging, yet laborious and at times monotonous. The cliffs and submerged rocks provided interest, though we saw little wild life. The miles of empty bays only served to remind us of stiffening muscles. Having completed our 55nm trip, one which we had wanted to do for three years, we are left to consider what challenge awaits us next.