Kayak Journal - East Solent Kayak Marathon

Friday 9th May 2008

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The plan for today was to make an early start at Lee on the Solent, cross to Cowes, and head east through Osborne Bay to Ryde. The return crossing would be at slack water, back to Stokes Bay where we would head west on the tide back to Lee on Solent. A round trip of 16 miles.

Leaving at 0700 meant that we could paddle over to Cowes with very little tide present to effect our desired straight line course. The sea was quite glassy with only the faintest of breezes present. We were all in good spirits looking forward to another island adventure. A ship at anchor on our route turned slowly on the tide and we paused for photographs. Arriving at the shipping channel, we upped the pace slightly to get across before a coaster arrived. Less than an hour after leaving Lee on Solent, we nudged the sand at Norris Point, just east of Cowes. We could see the tidal stream beginning to run in our favour as we sipped coffee and watched the early risers entering and leaving the River Medina.

Resuming our paddle, we headed east around Norris Point and into Osborne Bay, following the coast fairly closely. A solitary Seal 22 lay at anchor in the bay and we passed through quietly, only disturbed by a small school of fish and a flock of terns diving for them.
Having cleared the bay, we next looked at a small drying creek known as Kings Quay. It looked a tranquil tiny creek, but we could not get near as the approaches were dry. A single house on the western edge of the creek mouth looked the perfect retreat.

Picking our way through Wootton Rocks, we cleared the ferry channel and beached on the clay / shingle on the eastern side of the harbour mouth. Some splendid sausage sandwiches followed washed down with more coffee. We watched the car ferries coming and going and repeatedly witnessed the sea disappear off the mudflat in front of us, drawn up by the passing ships, only to return like a flood.

Ahead of our time schedule, we shoved off again to Ryde. With time in hand, we intended to round the pier and decide what to do then. Visibility was noticeably deteriorating as the sun tried to break through the clouds and promptly raised a sea mist. This grew thicker and we could no longer see the main land. We discussed how we would reduce the risk for the return crossing and came to the conclusion that we would cross the shipping lane between the sea forts to reduce the exposure to shipping, albeit that this would increase the distance dramatically.
Having rounded the pier head, we watched a hovercraft depart only to suddenly find a very steep single wave, about 60 centimetres high, racing towards us from behind, only a boat length away - wash from a passenger ferry that we had just missed at the end of the pier. We would certainly have been swimming if it was not for that 2 second warning! We carried on to the sands outside Ryde Marina, where I checked to see if my parents had already arrived there, but they had not.

We continued east to Seaview, slipping through the shallows watching the sands steam in the sun. We could not see No Mans Land Fort, even though it was only a mile away. The visibility eastwards was good so we carried on to Seaview where we paddled in close, admiring some of the sea front houses more than others.
Rounding the next corner brought us in to Priory Bay, where we beached again and broke out the last of our supplies - a few bottles of beer each. As we sat in the sun, the fog cleared steadily until such time that we could clearly see the forts and parts of the main land coast again. Suitably refreshed and now somewhat tippy / tipsy, we paddled northwards, stemming the tide to cross the shipping channel between the forts. Motoring towards us was a familiar yacht - Goodyear - en route to Ryde, but had come our way to see if they could find us. We had a brief exchange, were offered more beer, which we declined on the grounds of it effecting stability and were recorded on video. After ten minutes, we parted company and pressed on our way to Horse Sand Fort. The crossing here takes around and hour and a half and having paused briefly, we paddled on, aiming for South Parade Pier to take advantage of it’s facilities.

On arrival, we found the waves were dumping on the steep shingle and we all managed to time our way in for a good landing. After a thirty minute pit stop and a Mars bar each, we set off again before we nodded off. The launch was to be a little trickier though. Gav had a go but the breaking waves were proving difficult. I steadied him. On entering my own kayak, I soon found myself laying in the water next to it. The second attempt was successful so we waited for Griff. He had gone for the seal launch option (wisely) and from quite a height, belted down the shingle and into the water - very impressive.

Now heading west on the tide, we overtook an 80 year old man out for a swim. He had passed us earlier by the pier. We passed Southsea Castle and followed the beach to Clarence Pier, before crossing the shipping lane to reach the Haslar hot walls. We had done this to avoid as much ferry traffic as possible. Here, we found the sea somewhat confused; partly tide driven, partly caused by shipping.
The waves were coming in from the east and reflecting back at us from the sea wall, making it quite choppy. The pace quickened as we closed on Gilkicker Point and the sea became more and more turbulent as we ploughed through the small race that forms here. Once clear and looking across Stokes Bay, we opted to take the straight line route and press on for Browndown Point. We were starting to suffer the consequences of extending the route so much. My lower back was aching, Griff was sporting some blisters and Gav was wearing a look of grim determination. We all knew we had not packed enough food, especially stuff to nibble while paddling.

Browndown was soon reached with the assistance of the tide and the last two miles to Lee on Solent are so familiar, it could have been any old paddle. Except it wasn’t. We had covered over 26 miles in seven paddling hours. I don’t think any of us will look at these stretches of coast the same ever again. The conditions had been perfect for the trip, perhaps with the exception of the sea fog. Maybe when we have all recovered, we will plan the next voyage. I promised myself a beer when I got home, but sitting here typing this, it dawns on me that I haven’t yet had it....