Isle of Wight Circumnavigation

Saturday 23/05/09

With promising weather and some good planning done by Griff, the prospect of finally achieving our goal of circumnavigating the Isle of Wight seemed a real possibility. We were joined by Darren, a self confessed relative novice but at least he was fit and had recent BCU training at a well known centre in Wales.

We met at Lee on Solent at 0815 hours to load up and ready ourselves for the trip. By 0850 we were on the water and paddling south toward East Cowes. The calm sea swiftly became a lumpy mess, however we battled through it with visibly clear water ahead and came into the shallows at Norris Point. We turned westwards, clearing Cowes and rounding Egypt Point stopping briefly at Gurnard Point for a bacon baguette. The westward journey continued with the tide, briskly taking us to Newtown River where we stopped so I could stretch my legs. Yarmouth came up quickly and the over falls at Black Rock had us striving to get closer inshore to avoid the worst of it. We passed a group of eight of paddlers resting on the Yarmouth beach and we ourselves stopped briefly just past Fort Victoria for another leg stretch. The other paddlers then passed us heading west.

We pressed on out of the Solent crossing Totland Bay catching the paddlers up as we arrived at Alum Bay, which was just as glass like as the last time had visited. I felt tired after a hard week and snoozed on the beach, though I am told I was only asleep for five minutes. It was enough to revitalise me. Our tidal streams atlas indicated it was slack water and indeed, the other paddlers headed east again as we paddled along the north side of The Needles, hugging them to admire them up close. We rounded the lighthouse and paddled east again along the other side. The south side of the island looked just as tranquil as Alum Bay and with even better weather forecast for the following day, the decision to continue was made. We bypassed Freshwater Bay staying off-shore heading direct to Brightstone. This crossing took two hours or so of steady paddling. As we arrived on a shingle beach we found ourselves a raised shingle platform above the high tide mark and pitched up for the night. After a BBQ dinner, we retired for the night having paddled 25 nautical miles. I didn't sleep well, seeming to wake every five minutes.

Sunday 24/05/09

We were awake early to make use of the east going tide. We set off after a cup of tea and paddled six miles landing on a beautiful shingle beach just west of St Catherine's Point. We breakfasted, allowing a little time for the tide race to diminish. We climbed the steep steps on the cliff side to gain a view eastwards. The day was hotting up and the sea remained glassy. Following the cliff edge around the point looking down on the submerged rocks, we found that the tide had turned earlier than the tidal streams atlas indicated. Punching a knot of tide, it took over an hour to reach Ventnor. Along the way, Griff spotted our first seal. Except this one had a snorkel and two flippers. He was along way from any landing point having been carried by the tide.

At Ventnor, we rested up for a good while and had our lunch. We met a couple who were paddling the "Big 5". I am afraid our effort was rather meagre compared to theirs - they had already completed their cross channel trip and Lands End to the Isles Of Scily paddle and only had the Canada to Alaska trip left to do. Ventnor Harbour was a disappointment. About one third the size of Ryde, a few visiting yachts could be accommodated on trot moorings if it were not for the plethora of local fishing boats 'blockading' the harbour. A wasted development opportunity if ever I saw one.

Mid afternoon, we continued eastwards and now the sea had become mirror like. An hour of paddling against the last of a foul tide brought us to Shanklin where we landed for a short rest on the sandy beach. We opted for a direct route across Sandown Bay to eastern end of Culver Cliff. By now, the tide was firmly behind us and carried us into Whitecliff Bay where we stopped for a beer and a rest. Muffin III lay quietly to her anchor in the middle of the bay and I stopped for a brief chat. Twenty minutes later, we set off on our final leg of the day, rounding Bembridge Ledge close to the rocks looking down on a forest of kelp. The Bembridge lifeboat station was under renovation with the boat shed removed and a large work platform alongside on stilts. We heard a call to the Coast Guard on the VHF. A woman had been stung by a weaver fish in Priory bay and the caller wanted assistance - the result was the Sandown ILB being dispatched! The crew came past us at forty or so knots, picked her up and ferried her two hundred yards to a waiting ambulance....
With enough water now, we paddled across the sands inshore of St Helens Fort and across the Bembridge Harbour channel. Skimming through a foot of water, we landed in Priory Bay at 8pm where we would spend our last night under canvas. The beach was still busy with a young family belting out campfire songs until late and a water skier who carried on in to the darkness until 10pm. We were in our sleeping bags shortly after though having paddled another 22 nm in about ten hours. At this point I discovered why I had slept so badly the previous night - Griff gave me a jab every time I snored!

Monday 25/05/09

An even earlier start this morning as the inshore waters forecast indicated a change in the weather around midday. After a long drag across the sands, we paddled through shallow water past Seaview and around Ryde Sands. Behind us a large grey cloud loomed threatening rain. With only 8nm left to cover, we set of aiming to close land at Browndown Point. This crossing usually takes 40 minutes, but half way across a wicked wind and sea sprang up and forced us to detour to Gilkicker Point for shelter. We found ourselves between two WightLink car ferries just to add to the fun. Struggling on with little more than a knot of headway, the Gosport and Fareham Inshore Rescue boat shot out to sea. I would gladly have accepted a lift had it have come my way! Once at Gilkicker, naturally the wind died right back to nothing. Darren went ashore at Stokes Bay and Griff and I carried on to Lee On Solent to complete our circumnavigation. A later check on the weather indicated 30 to 35 knots of wind while we crossed The Solent.

The trip was fascinating and challenging, yet laborious and at times monotonous. The cliffs and submerged rocks provided interest, though we saw little wild life. The miles of empty bays only served to remind us of stiffening muscles. Having completed our 55nm trip, one which we had wanted to do for three years, we are left to consider what challenge awaits us next.

Wootton Creek to Bembridge Harbour

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Grid Refs
Wootton Creek SZ 557 932
Ryde SZ 593 936
Seaview SZ 629 916
Bembridge Harbour SZ 640 888

Features:
Wootton Creek

Also known as Fishbourne and identifiable from the sea by the arrival of WightLink car ferries. The creek can be explored a few hours either side of High Water Portsmouth.

Ryde

Identifiable in many ways, Ryde can be spotted from the sea by it's pier, the church spires on the hill behind and the coming and going of the high speed foot passenger ferry (to the pier head) and the hovercraft, the only remaining foot passenger ferry service in the UK. The extensive sands can stop you from getting too close.

Seaview

Easily identified as you approach in the summer months, by a fleet of moored yachts. Seaview is an attractive village, perched on the headland and the small neighbouring bay Seagrove Bay. Several opportunities for landing can be clearly seen and during the summer months, there is a cafe in the bay.

Bembridge Harbour

Another small harbour, that can be fully explored at high water; it offers sheltered paddling and a number of facilities. It marks the end or beginning of The Solent. The harbour entrance offers facilities and an excellent stopping point. Priory Bay, just around the headland towards Seaview, is an especially beautiful place, accessible at all states of the tide, but be warned - it is very popular on sunny weekends!

Access / Put-ins:
Ryde offers easy access anywhere along the beach with pay & display parking.
Seaview has a couple of spots with on street parking in the area.
Bembridge Harbour entrance has parking and easy access from the beach too.

Nature:
Nothing really apparent along this stretch, probably owing to the expanses of sand and tourism.

History:
Ryde Pier and two of the sea forts feature on this stretch of coast, No Man's Land Fort (in private ownership) and St Helen's Fort, the smallest of the four.

Waterside Pubs:
Wootton Creek has a pub near at the top of the creek, accessible at HW +/-2.
Ryde has several pubs near the beach, but nothing that I would say was suitable for arriving from the sea.
Seaview - none that I know of.
Bembridge - The Pilot Boat Inn at the south side of the harbour entrance is ideal. This spot is likely to make a good camping spot too. Also on the south side of the harbour, near the western end is the Brading Haven Yacht Club. Visitors arriving by sea are welcomed. Just outside the harbour entrance, one hundred metres north is the Bay Side Diner, a licensed restaurant / cafe overlooking the beach.

Hazards:
Along this stretch of coast, the only significant hazard is shipping. Staying closer in shore will avoid all but the passenger ferries. The hovercraft crosses the sands at Ryde at high speed. Don't forget they are less responsive than a conventional boat. The tides do not run particularly strong, although if close in shore over the shallows, you can easily find yourself either having to back track, or carrying over the shallowest parts. In some ways, it is better to stay off shore to make better use of the tide.

Kayak Journal - East Solent Kayak Marathon

Friday 9th May 2008

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The plan for today was to make an early start at Lee on the Solent, cross to Cowes, and head east through Osborne Bay to Ryde. The return crossing would be at slack water, back to Stokes Bay where we would head west on the tide back to Lee on Solent. A round trip of 16 miles.

Leaving at 0700 meant that we could paddle over to Cowes with very little tide present to effect our desired straight line course. The sea was quite glassy with only the faintest of breezes present. We were all in good spirits looking forward to another island adventure. A ship at anchor on our route turned slowly on the tide and we paused for photographs. Arriving at the shipping channel, we upped the pace slightly to get across before a coaster arrived. Less than an hour after leaving Lee on Solent, we nudged the sand at Norris Point, just east of Cowes. We could see the tidal stream beginning to run in our favour as we sipped coffee and watched the early risers entering and leaving the River Medina.

Resuming our paddle, we headed east around Norris Point and into Osborne Bay, following the coast fairly closely. A solitary Seal 22 lay at anchor in the bay and we passed through quietly, only disturbed by a small school of fish and a flock of terns diving for them.
Having cleared the bay, we next looked at a small drying creek known as Kings Quay. It looked a tranquil tiny creek, but we could not get near as the approaches were dry. A single house on the western edge of the creek mouth looked the perfect retreat.

Picking our way through Wootton Rocks, we cleared the ferry channel and beached on the clay / shingle on the eastern side of the harbour mouth. Some splendid sausage sandwiches followed washed down with more coffee. We watched the car ferries coming and going and repeatedly witnessed the sea disappear off the mudflat in front of us, drawn up by the passing ships, only to return like a flood.

Ahead of our time schedule, we shoved off again to Ryde. With time in hand, we intended to round the pier and decide what to do then. Visibility was noticeably deteriorating as the sun tried to break through the clouds and promptly raised a sea mist. This grew thicker and we could no longer see the main land. We discussed how we would reduce the risk for the return crossing and came to the conclusion that we would cross the shipping lane between the sea forts to reduce the exposure to shipping, albeit that this would increase the distance dramatically.
Having rounded the pier head, we watched a hovercraft depart only to suddenly find a very steep single wave, about 60 centimetres high, racing towards us from behind, only a boat length away - wash from a passenger ferry that we had just missed at the end of the pier. We would certainly have been swimming if it was not for that 2 second warning! We carried on to the sands outside Ryde Marina, where I checked to see if my parents had already arrived there, but they had not.

We continued east to Seaview, slipping through the shallows watching the sands steam in the sun. We could not see No Mans Land Fort, even though it was only a mile away. The visibility eastwards was good so we carried on to Seaview where we paddled in close, admiring some of the sea front houses more than others.
Rounding the next corner brought us in to Priory Bay, where we beached again and broke out the last of our supplies - a few bottles of beer each. As we sat in the sun, the fog cleared steadily until such time that we could clearly see the forts and parts of the main land coast again. Suitably refreshed and now somewhat tippy / tipsy, we paddled northwards, stemming the tide to cross the shipping channel between the forts. Motoring towards us was a familiar yacht - Goodyear - en route to Ryde, but had come our way to see if they could find us. We had a brief exchange, were offered more beer, which we declined on the grounds of it effecting stability and were recorded on video. After ten minutes, we parted company and pressed on our way to Horse Sand Fort. The crossing here takes around and hour and a half and having paused briefly, we paddled on, aiming for South Parade Pier to take advantage of it’s facilities.

On arrival, we found the waves were dumping on the steep shingle and we all managed to time our way in for a good landing. After a thirty minute pit stop and a Mars bar each, we set off again before we nodded off. The launch was to be a little trickier though. Gav had a go but the breaking waves were proving difficult. I steadied him. On entering my own kayak, I soon found myself laying in the water next to it. The second attempt was successful so we waited for Griff. He had gone for the seal launch option (wisely) and from quite a height, belted down the shingle and into the water - very impressive.

Now heading west on the tide, we overtook an 80 year old man out for a swim. He had passed us earlier by the pier. We passed Southsea Castle and followed the beach to Clarence Pier, before crossing the shipping lane to reach the Haslar hot walls. We had done this to avoid as much ferry traffic as possible. Here, we found the sea somewhat confused; partly tide driven, partly caused by shipping.
The waves were coming in from the east and reflecting back at us from the sea wall, making it quite choppy. The pace quickened as we closed on Gilkicker Point and the sea became more and more turbulent as we ploughed through the small race that forms here. Once clear and looking across Stokes Bay, we opted to take the straight line route and press on for Browndown Point. We were starting to suffer the consequences of extending the route so much. My lower back was aching, Griff was sporting some blisters and Gav was wearing a look of grim determination. We all knew we had not packed enough food, especially stuff to nibble while paddling.

Browndown was soon reached with the assistance of the tide and the last two miles to Lee on Solent are so familiar, it could have been any old paddle. Except it wasn’t. We had covered over 26 miles in seven paddling hours. I don’t think any of us will look at these stretches of coast the same ever again. The conditions had been perfect for the trip, perhaps with the exception of the sea fog. Maybe when we have all recovered, we will plan the next voyage. I promised myself a beer when I got home, but sitting here typing this, it dawns on me that I haven’t yet had it....

Solent Crossing

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Grid ref
Southsea SZ 657 982
Nettlestone Point SZ 630 917
Priory Bay SZ 635 901

This route across the Solent is from Southsea (Portsmouth) to Nettlestone Point near Seaview, Isle of Wight.

Southsea

Southsea sea front is a long shingle beach extending for several miles between Portsmouth and Langstone Harbours. I selected a starting point just east of South Parade Pier, where the road (with on street pay & display parking) passes close to the water edge.

The Route

The route follows a line of submerged blocks (a sea defence for Portsmouth Harbour) south to Horse Sand Fort, a large disused circular fort still in the ownership of the Ministry of Defence. The blocks are a charted hazard to all shipping, both commercial and pleasure so afford good protection for paddlers over this two mile stretch of the route. From here, the route turns south west across the main shipping channel that carries shipping to Portsmouth and Southampton docks, to No Mans Land Fort, a similar fortress but converted in to an elaborate residence with tennis court,swimming pool and heli-pad. Reaching this fort marks the other side of the shipping channel and relative safety.

The Isle of Wight Coast

Continuing broadly south west takes you to Nettlestone Point, a rocky outcrop at the small village of Seaview. West of this point is two miles of sandy beach leading to Ryde. East of the headland leads to Seagrove Bay and further south east, Priory Bay and Bembridge Harbour.
Priory Bay is a beautiful sandy beach at the foot of a tree lined bank, making it very sheltered in a soutwesterly wind. The headlands at either end are rocky.

Bembridge Harbour is a picturesque haven for pleasure boats, with water side cafes either side of the harbour entrance.

Seaview is an attractive small coastal village with a waterfront cafe at the centre of Seagrive Bay.

Access / Put-ins:
The promenade at Southsea mostly follows the coast closely, with on street pay & display parking.

On the Isle of Wight, access can be had at Bembridge, Seaview and Ryde.

Nature:
In the summer months, dolphins are being sighted mroe frequently.

History:
The sea forts, dating from the 1860s onwards are the most significant historical feature at this end of the Solent. There are four, and this route passes by two of them and offers views of the smallest, St Helens Fort.


Waterside Pubs:
Waterside cafes at Bembridge Harbour, Seaview and at Southsea near the pier.

Hazards:
At 4.5 nautical miles, this route is possibly amongst the longest to cross the Solent and as such has a few hazard spots, but lots of relatively safe water.
Paddlers should allow for the set and strength of the tide and bear in mind that it flows at a faster rate in the shipping channel and on the Island side. The wind strength and direction can have a large effect too, on different sides of the Solent.
The tidal streams in the immediate vacinity of the sea forts are unusual, with distinct eddies and these areas can have very confused winds and sea.
Shipping is an obvious hazard, but bear mind that it will take at least 15 minutes in good conditions to cross the shipping channel and a lot of ships have a limited view directly ahead of them, are deceptively fast and restricted by their draft. If in doubt, stay near one of the forts for safety.
Also, a small change in the weather can have a dramatic effect on the sea conditions, especially in an easterly wind.